Archive for the ‘pears’ Category

Thursday, February 24th, 2011

Brandied-Pear Coffee Cake

Last weekend the husband and I had some friends over for brunch. The rule for this particular group (who all are, or used to be personal chefs) is that you are supposed to make a dish that you have never tried making before.

A few weeks ago I added some peeled and cored pears to some mediocre brandy to make pear brandy. I used the brandy to make Pear Brandy Sidecars (which, P.S., were delicious) and was left with two pears that were infused with brandy. I decided to try making a coffee cake that would take advantage of these brandy-soaked pears.

Since I am not much of a baker, I turned to Ratio by Michael Ruhlman and used the basic quick bread recipe. For the crumb portion of the cake, I used my go-to berry crumble topping (with just a couple of tweaks) and since my favorite part of coffee cake is the crunchy crumble, I made a lot of it. Lastly I decided a vanilla glaze would be pretty on top so I made a little of that too.

Here’s the ingredients for the crumble (along with the sliced brandy-soaked pears).

I combined all of the crumble ingredients in a bowl.

Then used my fingers to mix it together (and after years of making this I finally realized that if I put gloves on I wouldn’t end up with schmutz under my fingernails).

Then I set this aside and turned to the cake.

In one bowl I whisked together all of the dry ingredients. Then in a second bowl I whisked together the milk and eggs.

Then I added the melted butter and whisked some more. Adding the melted butter to the cold milk results in the butter getting firm again, but in tiny bits, which distributes the butter throughout the cake.

Finally I added the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients.

And whisked some more, just enough to get rid of the big lumps.

I poured half of the batter into a springform pan, spread the sliced pears over the batter, then sprinkled about half of the crumble mixture over the pears.

Then I poured the remainder of the batter over the pears and crumble.

Finally I distributed the rest of the crumble mixture over the batter. It may seem like this was quite a bit of work, but this cake seriously come together in about 20 minutes.

The whole thing went into a 350 degree oven. I started checking it at 40 minutes, giving the pan a shake every 5 minutes and pulling it out when it didn’t jiggle anymore, which took a total of 55 minutes.

I let this cool for an hour or so and then put together the glaze.

I pushed the powdered sugar through a mesh strainer to get rid of all the little lumps, poured this into a bowl and then added the all of the vanilla and then the milk a tiny bit at a time until it was the right consistency for drizzling (it takes a surprisingly small amount of milk to make the glaze).

Finally I removed the sides of the springform pan and then drizzled the icing over the cake (over the sink to catch any drips).

I served the cake while it was still a little warm (the best way to eat coffee cake) and was very pleased with the results. The pears were a little strong for a couple of my guests, but most of us found them to be extremely tasty (they also kept the cake very moist). Next time you need a brunch treat, I highly recommend this cake.

xxx

BRANDIED-PEAR COFFEE CAKE
serves 10-12

Plain Bosc or Bartlett pears can be substituted for the brandied pears if you are not interested in making pear brandy. If you don’t have a springform pan. the cake can be made in a square or rectangular baking pan although the baking time might need to be adjusted.

For the pears:
2 bosc or bartlett pears which have been peeled and cored then steeped in brandy for 3-4 weeks, drained (reserving the brandy, of course) and sliced.

For the crumble:
2 oz flour
8 oz brown sugar
3 oz butter, cut into 1/2 inch cubes and softened slightly
4 oz pecans, lightly chopped
1 1/2 oz rolled oats

For the cake:
6 oz sugar
12 oz flour
1 Tablespoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
12 oz whole milk
3 eggs
6 oz butter, melted

For the icing:
4 oz powdered sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1-2 Tablespoon milk

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Prepare a springform pan with non-stick spray and set aside.

In a small bowl combine all of the crumble ingredients and use your fingers or a fork to mash together the ingredients until the butter is well distributed and all ingredients are well mixed. Set aside.

In a medium bowl stir together the dry cake ingredients. In a second bowl, whisk together the milk and eggs. Add the melted butter and continue to whisk to combine. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and whisk until the batter is just combined and there are no large lumps remaining.

Pour half of the batter into the prepared springform pan. Evenly distribute the pears over the batter then sprinkle half of the crumble mixture over the pears. Pour remaining batter over the pears and sprinkle with the remaining crumble mixture.

Bake for 45-60 minutes. Cake is finished when it no longer jiggles in the middle.

Let cake cool for at least one hour. Press the powdered sugar through a sieve to remove lumps. Stir in vanilla and just enough milk to create the proper consistency for drizzling. Remove the outside of the springform pan and drizzle the top of the cake with the vanilla icing (you may not need all of the icing). Enjoy cake while it is still warm.

Sunday, May 30th, 2010

Five-Spice Pear Streusel Muffins

I don’t bake a lot. I find all the precise measurements a little tedious. But every once in a while I get an itch. Today was one of those days (technically the itch hit yesterday, but it was too late in the day to start).

I started the day by making “The Best Chocolate Sheet Cake, Ever” from the Pioneer Woman Cooks Web site and cookbook (and it is the best chocolate sheet cake I have ever eaten). And then moved on to these muffins.

Why muffins? Well I was spurred on to make muffins by an online photo “assignment” from Lara Ferroni. The assignment for June is “Take a Bite” in which you make muffins, take a bite, then take a photo.

I’ve had some pears kicking around my fridge for (literally) weeks. They were quite firm when I got them (and I got a lot of them) so I decided to stash them in the fridge until I was ready to eat them. Well, I guess I was never ready to eat them because they were still in there at least two months later. Thing is, they were still perfect, no blemishes, no squishy parts. I decided to make the pears the focus of my muffins.

I borrowed a bit from several chefs to create these muffins. I adapted a recipe for poached pears from David Lebovitz and used the recipe for Oat Streusel Topping from Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything iPhone App. The batter itself was created using a recipe for basic quick bread/muffin batter from Michael Ruhlman’s great book (and iPhone app) Ratio. If you like to cook and don’t have this book you should make it your next purchase. Basically he breaks down recipes into their basic ratio (such as, muffins = 2 part flour, 2 part liquid, 1 part egg, 1 part butter) and then adds ideas for variations from there. It was the perfect jumping off point for my muffin recipe.

In the end, my muffins turned out a little ugly but very tasty. Very moist but with a nice crumb. The streusel on top added a lovely, sweet crunch.  I love using a five-spice mix in places where cinnamon might be used and this was no exception. The extra spices add a deeper dimension to the flavor that cinnamon alone can’t give you.

It’s going to be a good week for breakfast at my house.
xxxxx

xxxx
F I V E – S P I C E   P E A R   S T R E U S E L   M U F F I N S

I made the poached pears the day before I made the muffins, but they could easily both be done in the same day. Any extra pears can be stored in the fridge for up to five days and are lovely spooned over vanilla ice cream.


Poached Pears
adapted from a recipe by David Lebovitz
4 cups water
1 1/3 cup (265 g) sugar
4 Bartlett pears; peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 Tablespoon five-spice mix

In a large saucepan, heat the water and sugar until warm and the sugar is dissolved. Stir in the five spice powder and add the pears.

Cover with a round of parchment paper, with a small hole cut in the center. This ensures that the pears are kept under the surface of the liquid for proper cooking.

Simmer the pears until they are cooked through, 10-15 minutes.

Using a slotted spoon or a spider, remove the pears from the poaching liquid. Continue to simmer the liquid until it is reduced by about half, another 15 minutes or so.

Pour the liquid over the pears and allow to cool before storing in refrigerator.


Oat-Streusel Topping
adapted from a recipe by Mark Bittman

1 stick unsalted butter, softened
1 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup hazelnuts
1/2 teaspoon five-spice
1/2 cup flour
1/2 cup rolled oats
pinch salt

Combine all ingredients in a bowl and smush them together using your fingers until well combined and crumbly. Alternately, you could get out a mixer or use forks to combine everything, but I find this to be easier (and it uses less dishes).


Muffin Batter
created using Michael Ruhlman’s Ratio
makes 6 regular size and 6 large muffins

1 recipe poached pears, drained, syrup reserved
12 ounces flour
5 ounces sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 Tablespoon baking powder
8 ounces milk
4 ounces reserved poaching liquid
3 eggs
6 ounces (1 1/2 stick) butter, melted

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a medium bowl, combine flour, sugar, salt and baking powder. Set aside.

In a large bowl, combine milk, poaching liquid, eggs and melted butter. Whisk until eggs are well incorporated. Add the dry ingredients and whisk just until combined. Stir in drained pears.

Spoon batter into prepared muffin pans. Make sure not to over fill the cups or your muffins will spread out and overflow and you will be sad (trust me). Evenly top the batter in each cup with a couple of tablespoons of streusel topping.

Bake regular size muffins for about 30 minutes and large muffins for about 40 minutes, until toothpick inserted in the muffin comes out clean.

Thursday, December 31st, 2009

Briny Pork Chops with Caramelized Pears and Sage-Roasted Potatoes

Other than one meal when my mom visited during December I cannot recall having cooked at home in almost a month. First I was sick (really, really sick) and the little that I did eat was made (read warmed up) by my husband. Then I got busy with work (which, since I am a chef, involved lots of cooking) so I really wasn’t up to cooking when I got home (so lots of take-out). Then we went out of town (which is exhausting under the best of cases). I even canceled delivery of one of my boxes because I knew I would get to it.

I woke up this morning determined to cook. I picked up our box yesterday so I knew I would have lots of delicious new produce to choose from (plus, I still have lots of root veggies, which take much longer to go bad, stashed away too).

After a delicious “ladies lunch” out with one of my best friends and my Goddaughter I stopped by the QFC to pick up some sort of protein. Torn between chicken, pork or lamb I texted the husband for advice. Pork (with applesauce) was the reply (although I knew applesauce was not to be in the husband’s future). I considered a pork roast, then a pork loin before spying some thick-cut pork chops in the butcher’s case. Alas, they were boneless (and meat cooked on the bone is just better) so I asked the butcher to cut some special for me, bone-in, about 1 1/2 inch thick.

So, pork decided as the protein, I took a look in the fridge and pantry for potential counterparts. I turned up some garnet yams, and some pears (as a stand-in to the applesauce the husband wanted). I snipped a little sage from the herb garden and I was on my way.

Here’s the ingredients:

For the briny pork chops:

2 Tablespoon kosher salt
2 Tablespoon sugar
6 leaves sage
3/4 cup water
2 thick-cut bone-in pork chops

For the sage-roasted yams:

1/2 pound yams (garnet or otherwise)
2 Tablespoons or so olive oil
10 leaves sage
3 cloves garlic, lightly smashed
salt and pepper
a cast-iron pan (trust me, this is important)

For the caramelized pears:

2 Tablespoon butter
2 pears, peeled and chopped
2 Tablespoons sugar
juice and zest from 1/2 Meyer lemon
1/4 teaspoon salt

Now, I was cooking everything at once, so these instructions are gonna jump around a bit.

I started by making a brine for the pork chops. I combined the sugar and the sage leaves in a mortar and used a pestle to crush and bruise the sage a bit.

I then put this into a Ziploc bag, added the sugar and the water and shook the mixture until the sugar and salt had dissolved. Then I added the pork chops and tossed the bag in the fridge for a couple of hours (turning it once).

A half hour before I was set to cook, I removed the pork chops from the brine, dried them off, then set them aside for a bout a half hour so the middles of them wouldn’t be too cold when I cooked them.

Next I put the potatoes in the oven. Here they are all sliced up and ready to go.

The potatoes were inspired by a blog entry from the Food52 Website. I followed the method just about verbatim so I won’t repeat it here (but they took about 45 minutes total). I haven’t tried it with regular potatoes (as it is written) but that will be up very soon.

As soon as I put the potatoes in the oven, I heated up a grill pan, then brushed the outsides of the chops with a little olive oil and some salt and pepper. I seared the chops on one side, then flipped them and put them in the oven (alongside the potatoes) until they reached an internal temperature of 150 degrees (yeah, I know, USDA says 160 degrees, but that’s just gonna result in dry pork chops). They took about 25 minutes to cook through and they were done before the potatoes, so I just took them out of the oven and covered them with some foil until the potatoes were done too (at least five minutes of resting is important anyway).

Once everything was in the oven I started on the caramelized pears. I started by melting the butter in a saucepan over medium-high heat. I added the chopped pears and sauteed for about 5 minutes. Then I added the lemon zest and juice, the sugar and the salt and continued to cook the pears until they were golden brown and delicious.

To serve, I plated a few of the potatoes alongside a ginourmous pork chop then topped the pork with some of the caramelized pears, a bit of the tasty caramelizing sauce and a few of the crispy sage leaves.

How was it? Well, basically the whole time I was eating I was saying “nom, nom, nom this is so good”. The husband agreed and said that the caramelized pears were way better than any applesauce would be.

This is definitely a case where really simple ingredients, cooked well, resulted in something fantastic.

Sunday, November 22nd, 2009

Small-Batch Canning

Over the past few weeks, I have been putting up a bit of my produce. Quite a few people seem to be afraid of canning. But if you follow a few simple rules it’s quite safe and relatively easy to do.

The USDA has several canning guides available so I won’t go into too much detail about procedures. All of the canning that I am doing uses the boiling water method. Since I am mostly working with fruits (and the occasional pickle) which are high acid, boiling water canning works easiest and is perfectly safe. Low acid foods such as meats, poultry, fish and vegetables (except tomatoes) are low acid and require a pressure canner (which is not something I ready to dive into).

The only special equipment that I have is a jar lifter, jar funnel, a magnetic wand (for sterilizing lids) and a rack to keep the jars off the bottom of the pot.

A total investment of about $10. You can buy a special canning pot, but I have found that the stock pot I already own works just fine.

I started with some peaches that were not really good out of hand (they had kind of a weird texture) and some plums that were just starting to go wrong. I hate to be wasteful so I decided to turn them into sauce then can them for later use.

Here’s the ingredients for the Spicy Peach Sauce:

5 ripe peaches, peeled and diced
1/2 cup sugar
3 star anise
a few shakes of cayenne

And here’s the ingredients for the Spiced Plum Sauce:

5 ripe plums, peeled and diced
1/2 cup sugar
3 allspice berries
2 cloves
1 stick cinnamon

The method was the same for each of the sauces. I combined each of the fruits with the sugar and spices in a heavy non-stick saucepan.

Peaches
xxx

Plums
xxx

I let each of them cook, stirring frequently for about 20 minutes, just long enough for the sauce to thicken. If I was making jam or jelly, I would have cooked the fruit quite a bit longer (until 220 degrees, which can take up to an hour) but since I didn’t need the sauce to gel too much I didn’t need to cook it for very long.

Peach sauce

xxx


Plum sauce

xxx

Next I removed the spent spices from each of the pots. Then, using a ladle and my jar funnel I filled each of the sterilized (and still warm) jars with sauce. It’s important to leave about a 1/2 inch of space at the top of each jar. I actually didn’t have enough jars for all my sauce, so I just stuck the extra in a couple of Gladware containers and popped them in the fridge to use right away (within 3 weeks or so).

I sterilized each lid in the boiling water for about 10 seconds, putting each on top of a jar as they were done. Next I added the screw lids, then each of the jars went into the pot of boiling water for 10 minutes to process. Once the time had elapsed I removed the jars from the water bath to cool.

Now comes the moment. Either a vacuum is going to form resulting in a “pop” as the lid sucks down (it’s just the best sound when you are canning) or it’s not. If the jar doesn’t seal, you can try to process it again, but if it doesn’t work the second time you can just pop that jar in the fridge and use it right away instead of three months from now.

I used the peach sauce as a topping for vanilla ice cream (I love that spicy sweet thing). I haven’t actually tried the spiced plum sauce, but I think it’s going to be great on chicken or pork.

Next up, pickled beets. I’ve talked a bit before about the husband’s love of beets. But even if a person loves beets, sometimes you can only eat so many of them. So, I decided to pickle a bunch of them so we could enjoy them all winter long.

I combined a couple of recipes into the method I eventually used. The pickling liquid is a little sweet, kind of sweet pickle style.

Here’s the ingredients for the pickled beets:

7 medium red beets (about 4 pounds)
2 onions, sliced
2 cups vinegar
2 Tablespoon salt
1 cup sugar
1 cinnamon stick
6 whole cloves
6 allspice berries

I started by boiling the beets until they were just cooked through.

While the beets cooked, I combined the vinegar, salt, sugar and spices in a stock pot, brought the mixture to a boil, then let it simmer very gently, covered, until everything else was ready.

Once the beets were cool I peeled them then sliced them into bite-size pieces then sliced the onions.

I layered the beets and onions into each of the jars (beets, onions, beets, onions, beets), packing slightly. I strained the pickling liquids to remove the spices then poured the hot liquid into each of the jars, again leaving 1/2 inch of space at the top of each jar. Lids on, bands on, then into the boiling water for 10 minutes of processing.

We took our first try of these after about a week. Delicious. Sweet and tangy. I think if I were to make these again, I would boil the onions for just a minute or so. They were still quite crisp (just a little too crisp) but not enough that they were inedible. They were perfect as an accompaniment when I cooked some of the Bierocks stashed in the freezer.

Finally we come to yesterday’s canning extravaganza (a cantravaganza, if you will).

In this week’s box I got four pears and two Asian pears. Well, since I hadn’t even eaten the pears and Asian pears from the last box I decided to take a preemptive strike and can the pears right away.

I also decided to try using the two week old fruit. They were quite soft so I decided to make them into pear butter (even though the recipes all say not to use soft fruit).

In addition I received a wealth of grapes from someone in my hand bell choir. Two gallon-size Ziploc bags of red, green and purple grapes. With those I decided to make a conserve.

First up the poached pears. Again I used a few different recipes as reference. Most recipes for wine-poached pears use red wine, but since I prefer white wine, I decided to use it instead.

Here’s the recipe I came up with for the Wine-Poached Pears:

4 pears (in this case, I think it is important not to use old or soft fruit)
2 cups white wine (I used a chardonnay)
1 cup sugar
1 stick cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon vanilla

I started by combining the wine, sugar and cinnamon stick in a small stockpot. I brought the mixture to a simmer (stirring to dissolve the sugar), then left it on low heat until the pears were ready.

I peeled, cored and quartered each of the pears and packed them into my jars. Two of the jars ended up with 1 1/2 pears, one of the jars only had one pear.

Off the heat, I added the vanilla to the wine, then filled each of the jars with the wine mixture. Lids, bands, then 25 minutes of processing in the water bath.

I haven’t tasted these yet since all my jars sealed, but I am imagining using them in a salad with greens, blue cheese, some nuts and a nice vinaigrette.

Next up, the pear butter. I peeled, cored and diced the pears and Asian pears, discarding the really bruised parts.

I followed the recipe for Caramel-Pear Butter from the Epicurious Web site so I’m not going to repeat it here. I did, however, cut the recipe by a third and substitute white wine for apple juice (because I didn’t have any apple juice and I had wine open for the poached pears).

I used 6 pieces of fruit and it resulted in 1 1/2 cups of pear butter. Not a lot of product for the amount of effort involved, but it is delicious (and I was going to throw the fruit out anyway). I’m thinking pancakes, with pear butter, next weekend.

Lastly I made the grape conserve. Here’s the ingredients (and sorry, I don’t have a photo):

2 gallon-size Ziplocs of grapes, about 8 cups (most grape jelly and jam recipes call for concord grapes, but I just used what I had)
6 cups sugar
2 Tablespoon lemon juice
4 cups walnuts, chopped

A lot of the conserve recipes that I consulted called for cooking the grapes with a small quantity of water for about 20 minutes, then running the grapes through a food mill to get rid of the skins and puree the grapes. Well, I wanted pieces of grape in my conserve. That, unfortunately, meant that I had to peel all of the grapes (yes, you read that right).

Several Web sites suggested freezing the grapes overnight then running the frozen grapes under warm water to get the skins to slip right off. Well, this worked, kind of. I wouldn’t exactly say that the skins slipped right off, but it was somewhat easier (except for those purple grapes, those skins stayed tight, grrr). This process took about three hours.

I cut each of the grapes in half (and removed the seeds from the red grapes) then put them in a large, heavy stockpot along with the sugar and the lemon juice. I brought this to a boil and cooked it until it reached a temperature of 220 degrees (this took about an hour). Then I stirred in the walnuts and ladled the mixture into eight 1/2 pint jars (with about 1 1/2 cups left over, but I have Thanksgiving plans for that). Once again, lids, bands then into the boiling water canner for 10 minutes.

This stuff is tasty! I’m thinking this would be yummy on waffles (hmmm, maybe I’ll make waffles instead of pancakes for breakfast).

For Thanksgiving I’m planning on cutting a wheel of brie in half (lengthwise) loading up the middle of it with some of this conserve, then wrapping the whole thing in puff pastry to make a delicious baked brie. I’m really excited about it (and I’ll try to get a picture of it before it gets devoured).

If you’ve never tried canning, I highly recommend it. It’s so nice to have so many tasty goods stashed away for last minute guests or for an easy dinner (or breakfast).

Friday, October 9th, 2009

Fennel and Asian Pear Salad

Okay, I know that in my last recipe post I went on about fall and the slow, complex food that comes along with it. But just because it’s fall, that doesn’t mean I’m done grilling.

Earlier in the day I had bought some chicken thighs with no real plan of what to do with them. A quick search of the fridge revealed barbecue sauce and corn. So I settled on grilling both the corn and the chicken (brushing on the barbecue sauce as the chicken finished cooking).

I wanted to make a quick salad to go with the meal, but I wasn’t in the mood for a green salad. I settled on a lovely little raw fennel salad.

Here’s the ingredients:

2 teaspoon sherry vinegar (cider vinegar would be good here too)
2 Tablespoon mayonnaise
2 big pinches sugar (not in the picture because I added it after tasting the dressing)
1 small head fennel, core removed, sliced thin
1 Asian pear, core removed, sliced thin
1/4 cup pecans, chopped and toasted
1/4 cup dried cherries

I started by combining the vinegar and the mayonnaise, along with a little salt and pepper in a small bowl. I tested for seasoning and decided to add a little sugar to cut the tanginess of the vinegar a bit.

Next I brought out my mandolin slicer, set it very thin, then sliced the fennel and the pear.

I added the sliced fennel and pear, along with the cherries and pecans, to the dressing and stirred to combine. That’s it, super easy.

This turned out really good. Kind of Waldorf Salad like, but more complex. Crunchy, tangy, sweet, and did I mention really easy to make. This paired nicely with the barbecue chicken. If you are a late fall griller like me, I would definitely recommend this as a side dish.

About Me

I'm a personal chef living happily with her picky-eater (but willing to try anything) husband, neurotic black lab and a red heeler puppy.

I watch way too much TV and enjoy hip-hop more than any reasonable grown-up should.

I'm an avid swimmer and sometime triathlete (whenever I'm not nursing an injury).

Find out more about me here.

About This Blog

I'm cooking my way through the oldest cookbook in my collection, Betty Crocker's Hostess Cookbook, published in 1967. The book was a gift from my grandmother, but belonged to my great grandma Etta.

Beware, jello molds lie ahead.

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