Archive for the ‘sandwich’ Category

Monday, February 14th, 2011

Home Cured Bacon: Sous Vide or not Sous Vide?

When I found out that this month’s Charcutepalooza challenge was “the salt cure” i.e. bacon or pancetta making I was excited. Artisan bacon is a touch of heaven and I was ready to learn how to bring it into my life on a regular basis. Of course, then I realized I would need two things, pink salt and pork belly.

I turned to Twitter, asking those who follow me if there were any local sources for pink salt. Larry (@djpegleg on Twitter) replied that if I came by their house he would give me some. So, first item acquired.

The second item was even easier. On my way home from Larry’s I stopped by Rainshadow meats and picked up this gorgeousness.

The bellies, from Tails and Trotters (where they finish the pigs with hazelnuts) were small, just over a pound each, but I thought they would be perfect for my sous vide tests.

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The cure itself is easy enough to make. It is just a combination of kosher salt, pink salt and sugar or dextrose (I used sugar). The amounts of each, however, need to be measured carefully. Luckily my husband has this awesome scale left from his days when his photography was actually done in a darkroom.

I dredged each belly through the mixture and deposited each belly it it’s own Food Saver bag. It was time to consider seasonings, decide whether I wanted sweet or savory bacon. In the end I decided to go sweet (since I would also be making a savory pancetta) so I added some light brown sugar and a touch of molasses to each bag and then sealed them up.

I actually took a little more air out of them then I should have. It was a little hard to distribute the brown sugar, but after a couple of days, there was enough juice in the bag to move the sugar around as I gave my bellies their daily massage.

After a week the bellies had exuded quite a bit of liquid and felt firm to the touch.

I took the bellies out, rinsed all of the salt off of them and then dried them off.

OOoooh, even more gorgeous then when they started.

I prepared one to go in the oven and one to go in the sous vide.

The belly on the left went into a 200 degree oven for about 2 hours. I used a thermometer so that I would know precisely when the belly had reached 150 degrees.

The belly on the right, went into a 150 degree water bath for 6 hours. Following instructions that I have used for cooking pork belly in the past, while the belly was still warm I put a baking sheet topped with a weight on the belly and stashed it in the fridge overnight.

Here they are side by side (after a night in the fridge).

The one in the back is the oven-finished version (I may have tested a few slices of it for breakfast, you know, for quality control).

I tested the finished bacon two ways. For the first, I cut a slice off of each and cooked them in a saute pan. The sous vide finished bacon was much easier to slice evenly.

As it fried, the sous vide finished version (on the right) stayed straight as it cooked and didn’t curl in the pan. This made for slightly easier and more even cooking.

While I liked the easier slicing and cooking of the sous vide bacon, once it was done, it was kind of disturbing that it was so even (it lacked character if that makes sense). Of course the real test has to be taste. The winner of my side by side comparison was … the oven finished bacon. The two tasted virtually identical (which I expected) but the texture of the oven finished bacon was better. It had a firmer bite and a better chew (I know better chew is a weird description but that is the only way I can describe it).

For the second test, I cut the bacon into lardons, about 1-inch square and sauteed them on all sides. Here, the clear winner was the sous vide bacon. the softness of the bite (the thing I didn’t like in the sliced bacon) was wonderful in this application. Plus the fact that the belly had been flattened after I cooked it made it very easy to make nice even pieces.

Here they are frying up for my dinner party a couple of weeks ago.

So, in the end, after my two (very tasty) tests, if I knew I was going to be making lardons I would finish my bacon sous vide. Otherwise, I think I will be finishing my bacon in the oven. It takes much less time and gives a tastier and more versatile product.

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In my opinion there is no better way to eat bacon then in a B.L.T. However, if you have kick-ass bacon, you need to take the rest of the ingredients up a notch. Mache lettuce, oven-dried tomatoes, a couple of slices of awesome bread (just slightly toasted) and home-made mayonnaise.

Oven-dried tomatoes are so simple to make and it’s a great way to take really average winter tomatoes and turn them into something extraordinary.

Just slice some roma tomatoes into 1/4 inch thick slices and place them on a parchment lined baking sheet.

Sprinkle them with fresh gound black pepper and salt. I especially like this course smoked salt from Salish.

The large salt crystals melt just a little bit so they still have a little crunch in the finished product. Plus it imparts a nice smokiness to the tomatoes.

Put the pan in a 200-degree oven for 3–4 hours (hey, that’s the same temp as the bacon, you could cook them at the same time) until they are shriveled and dry. The longer you cook them the drier they get, but I like to pull them out when they still have a little moisture left in them.

Once dried, the tomatoes can be stored in the fridge for a couple of weeks. They make a great addition to pasta dishes and are yummy with cheese.

Until just a few years ago, I would have eaten my B.L.T. with yellow mustard, no mayonnaise. Then I discovered the pleasures of home-made mayo. With an immersion blender it takes about 4 minutes to make. I used Alton Brown’s recipe for mayonnaise (substituting bottled lemon for fresh because that is all I had in the house).

This video shows the process very well, but the steps are pretty easy. Just combine all of the ingredients in a tall glass (letting it set for a few seconds so that the oil comes to the top.

Then, with the immersion blender flat against the bottom of the glass, pulse for a few seconds to get the emulsion started.

Then start moving the blender up and down, until all the ingredients are uniformily incorporated.

To finish the sandwich, chop a few of the oven-dried tomatoes and combine them with a bit of the mayo.

Stir this together then spread on both sides of the slightly toasted bread (I don’t like to toast it too much since the crusts can become hard to eat when too toasty).

Then pile on the mache and the cooked bacon.

And voila. Sandwich.

Sweet, crispy bacon, nutty mache, smoky, tangy tomatoes, all combined for lunchtime nirvana. Fantastic.

xxx

Sunday, August 22nd, 2010

Cucumber-Mint Tea Sandwiches: A Tribute to Betty

As a personal chef I am often alone in the kitchen. Many times I will meet a new client, spend 45 minutes talking to them about their food needs, get a key to their house and then never see them again. I had a client for a while that even though I had been in their house every two weeks for over three years, I had only seen them twice.

However, on occasion, my clients are home when I am in their kitchen. They might work at home or be a stay-at-home parent but usually they are elderly.

I cooked for Betty almost every week for five years. When I was there I could always count on two things. One, the kitchen would be a little messy when I arrived and two, the TV would be on and tuned to either the news or a judge show.

Over the years we talked a lot. At first it was mostly about food, where we had eaten over the weekend, what she might like for me to make the next week. In time we started talking about more, politics, vacations, Project Runway, the big news story of the day. Her favorite topics, however, were gardening, her pets and especially her family.

In the summer, we would go out together into her garden so that I could harvest fresh vegetables to use for her meals. She was always concerned about my safety as I stepped over fences (designed to keep the rottweilers out of the garden) to pluck tiny carrots from the ground.

When we met, Betty was in fine health. I watched over the years as her legs started to fail her, going from needing a cane, to a walker until she eventually needed a scooter to get around. I never once heard a complaint. I could always tell when she was anxious about something because she would “pace” in her scooter, rolling from the back door to the living room over and over again. I always wondered how long she could keep that up before she would have to plug it back in.

One of Betty’s favorite things was throwing a party. Any excuse to have her family over (especially in the summer so they could be in the garden) was welcome. Often, rather than making meals for the week I would make hors d’oeuvres for an upcoming party. One of her favorites to include was tea sandwiches, specifically cucumber-mint tea sandwiches. Over the years my recipe changed a bit, honed for her tastes. The recipe started with all butter, went for a time to all cream cheese before finally settling on a combination of the two.

Betty passed away last week at the age of 91. As I sat, thinking about our time together, I was reminded of a time when she told me that the day after her last party she had enjoyed leftover cucumber tea sandwiches and a martini for lunch. I loved seeing the absolute glee in her eye as she described this slightly naughty thing she had done.

So today, as I reflect on, and write about Betty, I am munching on her favorite, Cucumber-Mint Tea Sandwiches. And of course, toasting her memory with the perfect vodka martini. Cheers to you Betty, you will be missed by all who knew you.

xxx


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C U C U M B E R – M I N T   T E A   S A N D W I C H E S
Makes 4 sandwiches (16 triangles)

Tea sandwiches are not tea sandwiches if you don’t cut the crusts off of them. While this may seem wasteful, I can admit to making more than one lunch out of tea sandwich crusts. If you make these in advance be sure to cover them well as they will dry out if they sit for too long.

4 Tablespoon butter, softened
4 Tablespoon cream cheese, softened
4-5 Tablespoon chopped fresh mint
8 slices potato bread
1 cucumber, sliced thin

Stir together butter, cream cheese and fresh mint. Taste for seasoning and add a pinch of salt (or two) if necessary. Spread the mixture on all eight slices of bread. Distribute cucumber slices evenly over four of the pieces of bread and then top with a second slice of bread to make the sandwich. Carefully cut the crusts off of each sandwich then cut each sandwich diagonally into quarters.

Sunday, June 14th, 2009

Flat Iron Steak Sandwich

Once again tonight’s meal was inspired by the Serious Eats Cook and Tell. This weeks theme: Sandwiches!

I am of the opinion that sandwiches always taste better when someone else makes them. I think that is because a truly great sandwich has a lot of ingredients and a lot of steps. So if you can enjoy the final product, without all the effort, it is just tastier.

Before I get started on the sandwich, I must introduce you to my kitchen clean-up helper.

This is Jones. He is almost 11 years old. He has been taught that he is not allowed in the kitchen while I am working (except for, as you can see, his paws). He is very helpful at cleaning up when I am done.

I created this sandwich over the course of a few hours, so I don’t have a photo of the ingredients all gathered together. But here’s what I used.

2 yellow onions, sliced and caramelized (see below)
1 small flat iron steak, grilled, rested then sliced
a handful of lettuce, julienned (I used red lettuce from my garden)
1 Roma tomato, sliced
horseradish sauce (made from 2 T sour cream, 2 T mayonnaise, 1 T horseradish and 2 T garlic chives, chopped)
3 ounces Seastack cheese (see below)
2 small baguette rolls

For the caramelized onions I warmed a little olive oil in a pan then added the sliced onion. Once it was sizzling I turned the heat down very low (but high enough that I could still hear it sizzle). I stirred the onions every 10 minutes or so.

Here they are at the beginning.

This is after one hour.

This is after two hours.

The smell of onions caramelizing is just delightful.

I thought about using blue cheese for the sandwich (blue cheese and steak is a pretty classic combination) but then I saw that the store had Seastack cheese from Mt.Townsend Creamery and decided that was definitely the way to go.

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Seriously if you have not tried this cheese (and you like cheese at all) you have to try this.

To compose my sandwich, I sliced the baguette in half and slathered each side with horseradish sauce. Then I piled on some lettuce, a few slices of Seastack cheese, some grilled flat iron steak, some caramelized onion and a few slices of tomato.

How was it? Yum, yum, yum, yum, yum. Admittedly it was a little difficult to eat (fillings falling out and what not), but it was sooo worth it. So good. Totally worth the time and effort that I had to put into making it myself. The only thing that would have made it better would have been for someone else to make it.

Monday, February 23rd, 2009

Lunch

Yesterday for lunch I made this:

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It’s a Monte Cubano sandwich (basically a cross between a Monte Cristo and a Cubano).

You can see the recipe on the Gourmet.com, just do a search for Monte Cubano.

You should make it, it’s good.

About Me

I'm a personal chef living happily with her picky-eater (but willing to try anything) husband, neurotic black lab and a red heeler puppy.

I watch way too much TV and enjoy hip-hop more than any reasonable grown-up should.

I'm an avid swimmer and sometime triathlete (whenever I'm not nursing an injury).

Find out more about me here.

About This Blog

I'm cooking my way through the oldest cookbook in my collection, Betty Crocker's Hostess Cookbook, published in 1967. The book was a gift from my grandmother, but belonged to my great grandma Etta.

Beware, jello molds lie ahead.

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